The Hostory of Ketchup, Catsup, One was kachiap in an old dialect of Thai, or kichap in Malay. the dictionaries of the time didn't help at all because they gave definitions such as "a high East-India sauce" that being the entire definition from a slang dictionary from 1698 and if you are looking for a bit of diversion later on
A History of Ketchup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWlqxGQXZx8
Have you ever wondered where the term honeymoon comes from? I'm about to tell you. See in the Middle Ages when a young couple got married their family would give them a moon, translation, a month's worth of honey mead.
And then the young couple would go off, frolick, and make merry for a few weeks and hopefully come back with a bun in the oven. So that's what we're making today. Not a baby but mead. the fermented fish sauce that ketchup descends from comes from much further East from Southeast Asia where they still use a lot of fermented fish sauce.The oldest recipe comes from the Qimin Yaoshu from around c. 544 and it tells of a Han emperorwho chased these barbarians all the way to the sea, and when he got there he smelled this interesting and very pungent aroma. He asked his emissary to go figure out what this was and when the emissary came back he said "It is simply a fermented paste made from fish entrails... take the intestine, stomach, and bladder of the yellow fish, shark, and mullet and wash them well. Mix them with a moderate amount of salt and place them in a jar. Seal tightly and incubate in the sun. It will be ready in 20 days in summer, 50 days in spring, or fall, and 100 days in winter."Later this type of fish sauce would proliferate throughout Southern China, Vietnam, Malaysia and down to Indonesia and the word to describe it kind of changed from language to language.One was kachiap in an old dialect of Thai, or kichap in Malay and at the time these could refer to several types of soy sauce some of which were made with fermented fish. Now Dutch traders seemed to enjoy it and began shipping it back to Europe, and then in the late 17th century British traders came into contact with the sauce as well, and by 1711 in 'An Account of the Trade in India' the British trader Charles Lockheer said that "Soy comes in tubs from Japan, and the best ketchup from Tonqueen; yet good of both sorts are made and sold very cheap in China."And soon after versions of ketchup began appearing in recipes in many English cookbooks. The problem was by that time nobody really knew what was in the original sauce, and the dictionaries of the time didn't help at all because they gave definitions such as "a high East-India sauce" that being the entire definition from a slang dictionary from 1698 and if you are looking for a bit of diversion later onmight I suggest thumbing through 'A New Dictionary of the Terms Ancient and Modern of the Canting Crew'It was supposedly written to catalog the words that were being used at the time by London's more unsavory population,and it claims it's "Useful for all sorts of people, (especially foreigners)to secure their money and preserve their lives." It's bawdy and it's hilarious at least to a modern reader so I will put a link in the description to where you can read that online,but I digress. Now with such a vague description for ketchup it kind of left the recipe writers of England at a loss, and so they were forced to start figuring out what this sauce might be,and so lots of different recipes for both ketchup and soy sauce start to pop up none of which have any soy in them and I don't think any of which are fermented. While some still do feature fish others are as diverse as walnut ketchup, a favorite of Jane Austen. *** But would I feel the same way if i was eating ketchup 250 years ago? Like with this 1787 recipe for white ketchup from England. Who knows! But thank you to Hellofresh for sponsoring my attempt to make it as I explore the history of ketchup this time on Tasting History.So before we get started I have an announcement and it is a big one so you're going to want to write this down. Next spring I am publishing the long-awaited much-anticipated Tasting History cookbook, ta-dah! What a lovely cover and it's actually already available for pre-order onlineand will be coming out on April 25th 2023.It has some of the best recipes from the show from melas zomos to parmesan ice cream and there will be new recipes that I haven't done here on the show yet. So I will put links in the description to where you can buy that pretty much everywhere that you can buy booksand I will make sure to keep you updated as we get closer to the release date but for nowlet us focus on ketchupor is it catsup?Ketchup.Catsup.Ketchup.Catsup.Now as the debate over the spelling of ketchup rages on there is one debate that is settled and that is that ketchup has tomatoes right?Well maybe today but not in the past. Heck it wasn't even always red and this is just such a recipe for one of those off-colored ketchups. It comes from the sixth edition of 'The Lady's Assistant for Regulating and Supplying her Table' by Mrs. Charlotte mason from 1787."White Ketchup. Take one quart of white wine, pint of elder vinegar, and one quart of water,half a pound of anchovies with their pickle, half a pound of horse-radish scraped,one ounce of eschalots bruised, one ounce of white pepper bruised one ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of nutmegs cut in quarters.Boil all together till half is consumed, then strain it off; when it is cold, bottle it for use.It is proper for any white sauce, or to put into melted butter." A considerably well written recipe considering it's from the 18th century but it doesn't hold a candleto the very easy to follow recipes from today's sponsor Hellofresh. So recently with the move and everything I have been working overtime to just try to catch up on videos and so after a full day of editing or writing or whatever I've been doing, the last thing that i want to do is go grocery shopping and even pick out what's for dinner. Hellofresh to the rescue. They deliver full meals to my door in sustainable packaging so there is no shopping to be done. And all of the ingredients are pre-portioned so I don't have to fuss with a bunch of prep work and with over 55 weekly options I can always find something I love and they have meals for everyone: pescetarian, vegetarian, fit and wholesome and right now they have some wonderful light summery dishes like this Italian chicken over lemony spaghetti with fresh zucchini and chili flakes the meal was filling but light and it made for the perfect summer pasta dish. So go to hellofresh.com and use codetastinghistory16 for up to 16 free meals plus 3 surprise gifts. That's tastinghistory16 at hellofresh.com. Now for this recipe what you'll need is: 1 quart or 1 liter of white wine, 2 cups or 475 milliliters of elderflower vinegar,That is the one thing that is not easy to find but you can get it online, I'll put a link to where I got mine but you can also make your own if you have fresh elder flowers.You just fill up a jar and then put some white wine vinegar in it and in about two weeks you'll have elderflower vinegar.1 quart or one liter of water, a half pound or 225 grams of anchovies,and these need to be salted or brined anchovies and not anchovies in oilbecause you actually need that salt or what she calls the pickle and it's it's a lot of salt. A half pound or 225 grams of horseradish, 1 ounce or 28 grams of shallots, 1 ounce or 28 grams of whole white pepper,1 ounce or 28 grams of whole mace. By the way that is a lot of mace. I used that amount of mace like 20 recipes of anything else sothis has now become one of the most expensive dishes that I've ever madesimply based on some of these ingredients, they're nuts. And a quarter once or seven grams of nutmeg cut into quarters, and that's a lot easier said than done because quartering a nutmeg can be a tricky business because it's round, so just be very, very careful. Now first we need to bruise our shallots and white pepper,and the shallots very clear you just kind of mash them a little bit but don't like grind them up.The white pepper is a little different because I've never heard that term bruiseassociated with like a hard peppercorn so I'm going to assume it's the same thing.She wants us to grind it but not into a powder which makes sense because later on we're going to strain things so that's what we're going to do. Then take a large pot and add the anchovies, horseradish, shallots, pepper, mace, and nutmeg.Then pour in the white wine, the elderflower vinegar, and the water and give everything a good stir. Then set it over high heat and bring it to a boil. So yeah... elephant in the room this white ketchup ain't white. I'm thinking that the name either comes from the very many white ingredients that we put in like the horseradish, the white wine, the elderflower and the white pepper,or it's because she says to add it to a white sauce and so that's actually what I'm going to do at the very end I'm going to mix into some bechamel,and I've already made this on the channel so I'll put a link in the description to where I made that. But first this needs to finish boiling and this pot of boiling anchovies and other stuff put me in mind of one of my very first videos and that was quick garum,and when I made that video I was living in a little apartment and had a bunch of neighbors so i couldn't make fermented fish saucewhich is how garum is supposed to be made but now I have a backyard so I do plan on making actual fermented garum.The interesting thing is this recipe for the boiling fish that reminds me of the quick garum makes sensebecause it turns out ketchup got its start as fermented fish sauce. Now while today's recipe put me in mind of garum, the ancient Roman fermented fish sauce, the fermented fish sauce that ketchup descends from comes from much further East from Southeast Asia where they still use a lot of fermented fish sauce.The oldest recipe comes from the Qimin Yaoshu from around 544 and it tells of a Han emperorwho chased these barbarians all the way to the sea, and when he got there he smelled thisinteresting and very pungent aroma. He asked his emissary to go figure out what this was and when the emissary came back he said "It is simply a fermented paste made from fish entrails... take the intestine, stomach, and bladder of the yellow fish, shark, and mullet and wash them well. Mix them with a moderate amount of salt and place them in a jar. Seal tightly and incubate in the sun. It will be ready in 20 days in summer, 50 days in spring, or fall, and 100 days in winter."Later this type of fish sauce would proliferate throughout Southern China, Vietnam, Malaysia and down to Indonesia and the word to describe it kind of changed from language to language.One was kachiap in an old dialect of Thai, or kichap in Malay and at the time these could refer to several types of soy sauce some of which were made with fermented fish. Now Dutch traders seemed to enjoy it and began shipping it back to Europe, and then in the late 17th century British traders came into contact with the sauce as well, and by 1711 in 'An Account of the Trade in India' the British trader Charles Lockheer said that "Soy comes in tubs from Japan, and the best ketchup from Tonqueen; yet good of both sorts are made and sold very cheap in China."And soon after versions of ketchup began appearing in recipes in many English cookbooks. The problem was by that time nobody really knew what was in the original sauce, and the dictionaries of the time didn't help at all because they gave definitions such as "a high East-India sauce" that being the entire definition from a slang dictionary from 1698 and if you are looking for a bit of diversion later onmight I suggest thumbing through 'A New Dictionary of the Terms Ancient and Modern of the Canting Crew'It was supposedly written to catalog the words that were being used at the time by London's more unsavory population,and it claims it's "Useful for all sorts of people, (especially foreigners)to secure their money and preserve their lives." It's bawdy and it's hilarious at least to a modern reader so I will put a link in the description to where you can read that online,but I digress. Now with such a vague description for ketchup it kind of left the recipe writers of England at a loss, and so they were forced to start figuring out what this sauce might be,and so lots of different recipes for both ketchup and soy sauce start to pop up none of which have any soy in them and I don't think any of which are fermented. While some still do feature fish others are as diverse as walnut ketchup, a favorite of Jane Austen. Pudding ketchup which was more of a sweet and spiced brandy. Oyster ketchup, pickled mango, orange juice, onions, mussels, lobster, grapes, cranberries cucumber, apples, liver and rum just to name a few.There was even one recipe which called for a gallon of strong stale beer to be addedthe anchovies, ginger, shallots and mushrooms.And mushrooms are actually what became the dominant ketchup of the 18th and early 19th century.Much of those early mushroom ketchups were actually likened to soy sauce, at least in its consistency,and sometimes it was actually called mushroom soy and then sometimes it would be mushroom ketchup, they used the term interchangeably neither of which had any soy,but one reason that mushroom ketchup became so popular was that it kept for a very long time. One 18th century writer claimed that he "had a bottle of this sort of ketchup, that has been opened and set by above a year,that has not received the least damage." And it seems that mushroom ketchup was the last type of ketchup that was okay to put on steak,because in William Kitchiner's 'The Cook's Oracle' he begins the chapter on broiling with a poem that ends"And for skill in such cookery your credit will fetch up, if your broils are well-seasoned with good mushroom ketchup." And just like the recipe today it's not meant to be used as a condiment but more as an ingredient to help flavor sauces,or gravy, or stock. Kitchiner also includes one of my favorite puns about ketchup ever. He says that "those who are for a superlative ketchup, will continue the boiling till the mushroom juice is reduced to half the quantity; it may then be called double cat-sup or dog-sup." [Haughty laughter]Hilarious! And to make this wonderful punhe has to change the way that he's spelled ketchup all the rest of the way through the cookbook but it seems that that's okay because I found over a dozen ways to spell ketchup in the 18th and 19th century.Though by 1831 that number had reduced to three: "Ketchup, catsup or catchup. These three words indicate a sauce of which the name can be pronounced by everybodybut spelled by nobody." And this book 'The Domestic Chemist' says that true ketchup is only made with either mushrooms or walnuts,so by 1831 the fish ketchup, the original ketchup is now a false ketchupas are all of those other types of ketchup including the tomato.Now the first tomato ketchup recipes appear shortly after 1800, and the first published recipe comes from 1812 by horticulturalist James Mease who prefers to call tomatoes 'love apples'.But his recipe which had brandy and spices was much more like a tomato sauce than anything that we would recognize as ketchupand it didn't really take off. See tomatoes were still coming into their ownafter centuries of Americans and Northern Europeans thinking that they were poisonous. Something I go into detail about in my video on tomatoes,and the reputation of the tomato was a little tarnished in those first ketchup recipes because it was made in a copper pot typically, and the acidic tomato would have a chemical reaction with the copper that would become ever so slightly... poisonous, strike one. Strike two came in the form of tomato ketchup's really short shelf life. Other ketchups could last years on the shelf after bottling but tomato ketchup could last maybe monthsbefore mold and yeast began to grow, not a bad thing if you're making it at home and you're going to eat it in a few days butaround 1837 they started commercially producing tomato ketchup bottling it and putting it on store shelves.So it's a bad thing when your product goes bad after a couple months, and even a worse thing when to preserve ityou use benzoic and salicylic acid or even coal tar to help the color turn red. And in 1863 prominent food writer Pierre Blot cautioned people to"Beware what is sold under the name of catsups... many cases of debility and consumption come from eating such stuff."And another writer claimed that the tomato ketchup sold in stores was"Poor stuff, made of dubious ingredients and the fruitful source of indigestion and other disorders of the stomach."And so bottled tomato ketchup earned a reputation for being "Filthy, decomposed and putrid vegetable substances".Strike three! But just when you thought tomato ketchup was out "And then a hero comes along"And that hero was Henry J. Heinz. Actually he was not the only one to do this there were several people working on the problem,he's just the most famous and he's really not a herobut he was very, very good at marketing. Now Heinz actually got his start in the exciting world of horseradish which using his mother's own recipe he bottled and sold. What made him different was that he bottled it in clear glass and so he could tell his customers "Look! I'm using clear glass, hence I have nothing to hide." His pitch worked and the business called Heinz, and Noble took off and they started selling other things including pickles and sauerkraut, incurring a lot of debt along the way which was a bad thing when the Panic of 1873 set in, and all the creditors wanted their money back.Heinz and Noble went bust, but Heinz was not deterred. It took him a few years to get back up on his feet but he did and this time it was with his brother and his cousin,and they established the F. & J. Heinz Company. They brought back many of the old products but also addedtomato catsup to the roster and a product with such a tarnished reputation as tomato ketchupreally benefited from his whole "look it's in a clear bottle so we have nothing to hide" shtick, and it was just a shtick because actually it had more apples than tomatoes in it and it included all of those preservatives that the other guys ketchup did, and it wasn't until an executive from Heinz attended the Pure Food and Drug Congress of 1904 that the company saw the writing on the wall and decided that they would be the first ones to get rid of all the preservatives. GF Mason, the head of the Heinz research laboratory spent a long time trying to figure out a way to make a preservative-free ketchup that would hold and with mixed results, but it had to happen so eventually they released one that boasted"We do not use any benzoate of soda, any drug, any chemical, or any coloring or adulterant of any kind." Heinz knew ketchup even though it was quite a bit more expensive than any of his competitorssold like gangbusters and it led Heinz to become a strong proponent of the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906. They also changed up the recipe to include a lot more sugar, vinegar, and saltpartly to help it stay preserved for longer and it also made it a lot thicker,and it gave us the flavor that we are acquainted with today when we say ketchup. Now supposedly the ketchup exiting a classic glass Heinz bottle comes out at .028 miles per hour. Oh, and that 57 that they use the Heinz 57 varieties yeah it doesn't mean anything. See he'd seen an advertisement for shoes and they said we have 21styles, and he thought that that was catchy just having a number associated with it so he decided I'll do the same thing and put 57 varieties even though they had 57 varieties of nothing. i=It was just really good marketing and really that's what Heinz was good at was the marketing. It was the clear bottle, the 57 and of course changing his spelling from catsup to ketchup with a K which at the time was a little less common and so he thought it would make it stand out and clearly it did because now Heinz ketchup is the most popular ketchup in the world,and most people today spell ketchup with a K,as does the actual recipe that we're making today from 1787 for white ketchup which is also really good marketing because the ketchup is not whitebut regardless once it's boiled down by half, strain it, and let the liquid cool completely before putting it into a bottle. Now again just as you wouldn't typically drink soy sauce by itself you would put it into something as an ingredient to help with the flavor I'm going to do what she suggests and put it into this bechamel sauce, and if you haven't seen that video on bechamel and the wonderful yet tragic story of François Vatel I will make sure that that is the video that pops up after this one. And here we are white ketchup from 1787. Okay so before I try the ketchup in the bechamel I'm gonna try it just by itself.That actually smells really good.Kind of... sweet which is weird because there's nothing in there that should make it sweet smelling.Ahhhh.This is bound to go bad. It's interesting so it kind of looks like it should be like water but it's a little bit thicker.Let's give it a shot.[Instant regret]It's not sweet.OH!Yeah, that is not meant to be eaten alone. Woah.Okay, besides the fact that it's super salty. It's just-it's like concentrated flavor, and I don't know what flavor. I really don't know what flavor because I'm not tasting any specific flavor, it's all of them. It's really tangy though, that's what I'm getting now. Wow!Blew out my- blew out my buds. I'm gonna try thewhite sauce with a little bit mixed in, it's just a very little bit maybe like a half a teaspoon.Let's give this a shot.Now that is good. That's how it's supposed to be eaten, as she said. That is how it's supposed to be eaten. So when it's mixed with something kind of creamy and neutral it adds this tangy zestmaking it almost like almost like a tartar sauce but with like a weird umami very savory note to it. That's very interesting, and iI actually like it. I'm curious what it tastes like with a french fry because that is how you're supposed to eat-eat ketchup.[Crunch]Sure that's kind of nice. :) So while I'm not going to be swapping it out for my beloved tomato ketchup i do think it's pretty good granted i wouldn't make it again. It's not good enough to go to all the trouble and the expense. It's very, very expensive ketchup but it's fun experiment so make sure to go check out Tasting History the cookbook online.Links in the description and I will see you next time on Tasting History.
And then the young couple would go off, frolick, and make merry for a few weeks and hopefully come back with a bun in the oven. So that's what we're making today. Not a baby but mead. the fermented fish sauce that ketchup descends from comes from much further East from Southeast Asia where they still use a lot of fermented fish sauce.The oldest recipe comes from the Qimin Yaoshu from around c. 544 and it tells of a Han emperorwho chased these barbarians all the way to the sea, and when he got there he smelled this interesting and very pungent aroma. He asked his emissary to go figure out what this was and when the emissary came back he said "It is simply a fermented paste made from fish entrails... take the intestine, stomach, and bladder of the yellow fish, shark, and mullet and wash them well. Mix them with a moderate amount of salt and place them in a jar. Seal tightly and incubate in the sun. It will be ready in 20 days in summer, 50 days in spring, or fall, and 100 days in winter."Later this type of fish sauce would proliferate throughout Southern China, Vietnam, Malaysia and down to Indonesia and the word to describe it kind of changed from language to language.One was kachiap in an old dialect of Thai, or kichap in Malay and at the time these could refer to several types of soy sauce some of which were made with fermented fish. Now Dutch traders seemed to enjoy it and began shipping it back to Europe, and then in the late 17th century British traders came into contact with the sauce as well, and by 1711 in 'An Account of the Trade in India' the British trader Charles Lockheer said that "Soy comes in tubs from Japan, and the best ketchup from Tonqueen; yet good of both sorts are made and sold very cheap in China."And soon after versions of ketchup began appearing in recipes in many English cookbooks. The problem was by that time nobody really knew what was in the original sauce, and the dictionaries of the time didn't help at all because they gave definitions such as "a high East-India sauce" that being the entire definition from a slang dictionary from 1698 and if you are looking for a bit of diversion later onmight I suggest thumbing through 'A New Dictionary of the Terms Ancient and Modern of the Canting Crew'It was supposedly written to catalog the words that were being used at the time by London's more unsavory population,and it claims it's "Useful for all sorts of people, (especially foreigners)to secure their money and preserve their lives." It's bawdy and it's hilarious at least to a modern reader so I will put a link in the description to where you can read that online,but I digress. Now with such a vague description for ketchup it kind of left the recipe writers of England at a loss, and so they were forced to start figuring out what this sauce might be,and so lots of different recipes for both ketchup and soy sauce start to pop up none of which have any soy in them and I don't think any of which are fermented. While some still do feature fish others are as diverse as walnut ketchup, a favorite of Jane Austen. *** But would I feel the same way if i was eating ketchup 250 years ago? Like with this 1787 recipe for white ketchup from England. Who knows! But thank you to Hellofresh for sponsoring my attempt to make it as I explore the history of ketchup this time on Tasting History.So before we get started I have an announcement and it is a big one so you're going to want to write this down. Next spring I am publishing the long-awaited much-anticipated Tasting History cookbook, ta-dah! What a lovely cover and it's actually already available for pre-order onlineand will be coming out on April 25th 2023.It has some of the best recipes from the show from melas zomos to parmesan ice cream and there will be new recipes that I haven't done here on the show yet. So I will put links in the description to where you can buy that pretty much everywhere that you can buy booksand I will make sure to keep you updated as we get closer to the release date but for nowlet us focus on ketchupor is it catsup?Ketchup.Catsup.Ketchup.Catsup.Now as the debate over the spelling of ketchup rages on there is one debate that is settled and that is that ketchup has tomatoes right?Well maybe today but not in the past. Heck it wasn't even always red and this is just such a recipe for one of those off-colored ketchups. It comes from the sixth edition of 'The Lady's Assistant for Regulating and Supplying her Table' by Mrs. Charlotte mason from 1787."White Ketchup. Take one quart of white wine, pint of elder vinegar, and one quart of water,half a pound of anchovies with their pickle, half a pound of horse-radish scraped,one ounce of eschalots bruised, one ounce of white pepper bruised one ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of nutmegs cut in quarters.Boil all together till half is consumed, then strain it off; when it is cold, bottle it for use.It is proper for any white sauce, or to put into melted butter." A considerably well written recipe considering it's from the 18th century but it doesn't hold a candleto the very easy to follow recipes from today's sponsor Hellofresh. So recently with the move and everything I have been working overtime to just try to catch up on videos and so after a full day of editing or writing or whatever I've been doing, the last thing that i want to do is go grocery shopping and even pick out what's for dinner. Hellofresh to the rescue. They deliver full meals to my door in sustainable packaging so there is no shopping to be done. And all of the ingredients are pre-portioned so I don't have to fuss with a bunch of prep work and with over 55 weekly options I can always find something I love and they have meals for everyone: pescetarian, vegetarian, fit and wholesome and right now they have some wonderful light summery dishes like this Italian chicken over lemony spaghetti with fresh zucchini and chili flakes the meal was filling but light and it made for the perfect summer pasta dish. So go to hellofresh.com and use codetastinghistory16 for up to 16 free meals plus 3 surprise gifts. That's tastinghistory16 at hellofresh.com. Now for this recipe what you'll need is: 1 quart or 1 liter of white wine, 2 cups or 475 milliliters of elderflower vinegar,That is the one thing that is not easy to find but you can get it online, I'll put a link to where I got mine but you can also make your own if you have fresh elder flowers.You just fill up a jar and then put some white wine vinegar in it and in about two weeks you'll have elderflower vinegar.1 quart or one liter of water, a half pound or 225 grams of anchovies,and these need to be salted or brined anchovies and not anchovies in oilbecause you actually need that salt or what she calls the pickle and it's it's a lot of salt. A half pound or 225 grams of horseradish, 1 ounce or 28 grams of shallots, 1 ounce or 28 grams of whole white pepper,1 ounce or 28 grams of whole mace. By the way that is a lot of mace. I used that amount of mace like 20 recipes of anything else sothis has now become one of the most expensive dishes that I've ever madesimply based on some of these ingredients, they're nuts. And a quarter once or seven grams of nutmeg cut into quarters, and that's a lot easier said than done because quartering a nutmeg can be a tricky business because it's round, so just be very, very careful. Now first we need to bruise our shallots and white pepper,and the shallots very clear you just kind of mash them a little bit but don't like grind them up.The white pepper is a little different because I've never heard that term bruiseassociated with like a hard peppercorn so I'm going to assume it's the same thing.She wants us to grind it but not into a powder which makes sense because later on we're going to strain things so that's what we're going to do. Then take a large pot and add the anchovies, horseradish, shallots, pepper, mace, and nutmeg.Then pour in the white wine, the elderflower vinegar, and the water and give everything a good stir. Then set it over high heat and bring it to a boil. So yeah... elephant in the room this white ketchup ain't white. I'm thinking that the name either comes from the very many white ingredients that we put in like the horseradish, the white wine, the elderflower and the white pepper,or it's because she says to add it to a white sauce and so that's actually what I'm going to do at the very end I'm going to mix into some bechamel,and I've already made this on the channel so I'll put a link in the description to where I made that. But first this needs to finish boiling and this pot of boiling anchovies and other stuff put me in mind of one of my very first videos and that was quick garum,and when I made that video I was living in a little apartment and had a bunch of neighbors so i couldn't make fermented fish saucewhich is how garum is supposed to be made but now I have a backyard so I do plan on making actual fermented garum.The interesting thing is this recipe for the boiling fish that reminds me of the quick garum makes sensebecause it turns out ketchup got its start as fermented fish sauce. Now while today's recipe put me in mind of garum, the ancient Roman fermented fish sauce, the fermented fish sauce that ketchup descends from comes from much further East from Southeast Asia where they still use a lot of fermented fish sauce.The oldest recipe comes from the Qimin Yaoshu from around 544 and it tells of a Han emperorwho chased these barbarians all the way to the sea, and when he got there he smelled thisinteresting and very pungent aroma. He asked his emissary to go figure out what this was and when the emissary came back he said "It is simply a fermented paste made from fish entrails... take the intestine, stomach, and bladder of the yellow fish, shark, and mullet and wash them well. Mix them with a moderate amount of salt and place them in a jar. Seal tightly and incubate in the sun. It will be ready in 20 days in summer, 50 days in spring, or fall, and 100 days in winter."Later this type of fish sauce would proliferate throughout Southern China, Vietnam, Malaysia and down to Indonesia and the word to describe it kind of changed from language to language.One was kachiap in an old dialect of Thai, or kichap in Malay and at the time these could refer to several types of soy sauce some of which were made with fermented fish. Now Dutch traders seemed to enjoy it and began shipping it back to Europe, and then in the late 17th century British traders came into contact with the sauce as well, and by 1711 in 'An Account of the Trade in India' the British trader Charles Lockheer said that "Soy comes in tubs from Japan, and the best ketchup from Tonqueen; yet good of both sorts are made and sold very cheap in China."And soon after versions of ketchup began appearing in recipes in many English cookbooks. The problem was by that time nobody really knew what was in the original sauce, and the dictionaries of the time didn't help at all because they gave definitions such as "a high East-India sauce" that being the entire definition from a slang dictionary from 1698 and if you are looking for a bit of diversion later onmight I suggest thumbing through 'A New Dictionary of the Terms Ancient and Modern of the Canting Crew'It was supposedly written to catalog the words that were being used at the time by London's more unsavory population,and it claims it's "Useful for all sorts of people, (especially foreigners)to secure their money and preserve their lives." It's bawdy and it's hilarious at least to a modern reader so I will put a link in the description to where you can read that online,but I digress. Now with such a vague description for ketchup it kind of left the recipe writers of England at a loss, and so they were forced to start figuring out what this sauce might be,and so lots of different recipes for both ketchup and soy sauce start to pop up none of which have any soy in them and I don't think any of which are fermented. While some still do feature fish others are as diverse as walnut ketchup, a favorite of Jane Austen. Pudding ketchup which was more of a sweet and spiced brandy. Oyster ketchup, pickled mango, orange juice, onions, mussels, lobster, grapes, cranberries cucumber, apples, liver and rum just to name a few.There was even one recipe which called for a gallon of strong stale beer to be addedthe anchovies, ginger, shallots and mushrooms.And mushrooms are actually what became the dominant ketchup of the 18th and early 19th century.Much of those early mushroom ketchups were actually likened to soy sauce, at least in its consistency,and sometimes it was actually called mushroom soy and then sometimes it would be mushroom ketchup, they used the term interchangeably neither of which had any soy,but one reason that mushroom ketchup became so popular was that it kept for a very long time. One 18th century writer claimed that he "had a bottle of this sort of ketchup, that has been opened and set by above a year,that has not received the least damage." And it seems that mushroom ketchup was the last type of ketchup that was okay to put on steak,because in William Kitchiner's 'The Cook's Oracle' he begins the chapter on broiling with a poem that ends"And for skill in such cookery your credit will fetch up, if your broils are well-seasoned with good mushroom ketchup." And just like the recipe today it's not meant to be used as a condiment but more as an ingredient to help flavor sauces,or gravy, or stock. Kitchiner also includes one of my favorite puns about ketchup ever. He says that "those who are for a superlative ketchup, will continue the boiling till the mushroom juice is reduced to half the quantity; it may then be called double cat-sup or dog-sup." [Haughty laughter]Hilarious! And to make this wonderful punhe has to change the way that he's spelled ketchup all the rest of the way through the cookbook but it seems that that's okay because I found over a dozen ways to spell ketchup in the 18th and 19th century.Though by 1831 that number had reduced to three: "Ketchup, catsup or catchup. These three words indicate a sauce of which the name can be pronounced by everybodybut spelled by nobody." And this book 'The Domestic Chemist' says that true ketchup is only made with either mushrooms or walnuts,so by 1831 the fish ketchup, the original ketchup is now a false ketchupas are all of those other types of ketchup including the tomato.Now the first tomato ketchup recipes appear shortly after 1800, and the first published recipe comes from 1812 by horticulturalist James Mease who prefers to call tomatoes 'love apples'.But his recipe which had brandy and spices was much more like a tomato sauce than anything that we would recognize as ketchupand it didn't really take off. See tomatoes were still coming into their ownafter centuries of Americans and Northern Europeans thinking that they were poisonous. Something I go into detail about in my video on tomatoes,and the reputation of the tomato was a little tarnished in those first ketchup recipes because it was made in a copper pot typically, and the acidic tomato would have a chemical reaction with the copper that would become ever so slightly... poisonous, strike one. Strike two came in the form of tomato ketchup's really short shelf life. Other ketchups could last years on the shelf after bottling but tomato ketchup could last maybe monthsbefore mold and yeast began to grow, not a bad thing if you're making it at home and you're going to eat it in a few days butaround 1837 they started commercially producing tomato ketchup bottling it and putting it on store shelves.So it's a bad thing when your product goes bad after a couple months, and even a worse thing when to preserve ityou use benzoic and salicylic acid or even coal tar to help the color turn red. And in 1863 prominent food writer Pierre Blot cautioned people to"Beware what is sold under the name of catsups... many cases of debility and consumption come from eating such stuff."And another writer claimed that the tomato ketchup sold in stores was"Poor stuff, made of dubious ingredients and the fruitful source of indigestion and other disorders of the stomach."And so bottled tomato ketchup earned a reputation for being "Filthy, decomposed and putrid vegetable substances".Strike three! But just when you thought tomato ketchup was out "And then a hero comes along"And that hero was Henry J. Heinz. Actually he was not the only one to do this there were several people working on the problem,he's just the most famous and he's really not a herobut he was very, very good at marketing. Now Heinz actually got his start in the exciting world of horseradish which using his mother's own recipe he bottled and sold. What made him different was that he bottled it in clear glass and so he could tell his customers "Look! I'm using clear glass, hence I have nothing to hide." His pitch worked and the business called Heinz, and Noble took off and they started selling other things including pickles and sauerkraut, incurring a lot of debt along the way which was a bad thing when the Panic of 1873 set in, and all the creditors wanted their money back.Heinz and Noble went bust, but Heinz was not deterred. It took him a few years to get back up on his feet but he did and this time it was with his brother and his cousin,and they established the F. & J. Heinz Company. They brought back many of the old products but also addedtomato catsup to the roster and a product with such a tarnished reputation as tomato ketchupreally benefited from his whole "look it's in a clear bottle so we have nothing to hide" shtick, and it was just a shtick because actually it had more apples than tomatoes in it and it included all of those preservatives that the other guys ketchup did, and it wasn't until an executive from Heinz attended the Pure Food and Drug Congress of 1904 that the company saw the writing on the wall and decided that they would be the first ones to get rid of all the preservatives. GF Mason, the head of the Heinz research laboratory spent a long time trying to figure out a way to make a preservative-free ketchup that would hold and with mixed results, but it had to happen so eventually they released one that boasted"We do not use any benzoate of soda, any drug, any chemical, or any coloring or adulterant of any kind." Heinz knew ketchup even though it was quite a bit more expensive than any of his competitorssold like gangbusters and it led Heinz to become a strong proponent of the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906. They also changed up the recipe to include a lot more sugar, vinegar, and saltpartly to help it stay preserved for longer and it also made it a lot thicker,and it gave us the flavor that we are acquainted with today when we say ketchup. Now supposedly the ketchup exiting a classic glass Heinz bottle comes out at .028 miles per hour. Oh, and that 57 that they use the Heinz 57 varieties yeah it doesn't mean anything. See he'd seen an advertisement for shoes and they said we have 21styles, and he thought that that was catchy just having a number associated with it so he decided I'll do the same thing and put 57 varieties even though they had 57 varieties of nothing. i=It was just really good marketing and really that's what Heinz was good at was the marketing. It was the clear bottle, the 57 and of course changing his spelling from catsup to ketchup with a K which at the time was a little less common and so he thought it would make it stand out and clearly it did because now Heinz ketchup is the most popular ketchup in the world,and most people today spell ketchup with a K,as does the actual recipe that we're making today from 1787 for white ketchup which is also really good marketing because the ketchup is not whitebut regardless once it's boiled down by half, strain it, and let the liquid cool completely before putting it into a bottle. Now again just as you wouldn't typically drink soy sauce by itself you would put it into something as an ingredient to help with the flavor I'm going to do what she suggests and put it into this bechamel sauce, and if you haven't seen that video on bechamel and the wonderful yet tragic story of François Vatel I will make sure that that is the video that pops up after this one. And here we are white ketchup from 1787. Okay so before I try the ketchup in the bechamel I'm gonna try it just by itself.That actually smells really good.Kind of... sweet which is weird because there's nothing in there that should make it sweet smelling.Ahhhh.This is bound to go bad. It's interesting so it kind of looks like it should be like water but it's a little bit thicker.Let's give it a shot.[Instant regret]It's not sweet.OH!Yeah, that is not meant to be eaten alone. Woah.Okay, besides the fact that it's super salty. It's just-it's like concentrated flavor, and I don't know what flavor. I really don't know what flavor because I'm not tasting any specific flavor, it's all of them. It's really tangy though, that's what I'm getting now. Wow!Blew out my- blew out my buds. I'm gonna try thewhite sauce with a little bit mixed in, it's just a very little bit maybe like a half a teaspoon.Let's give this a shot.Now that is good. That's how it's supposed to be eaten, as she said. That is how it's supposed to be eaten. So when it's mixed with something kind of creamy and neutral it adds this tangy zestmaking it almost like almost like a tartar sauce but with like a weird umami very savory note to it. That's very interesting, and iI actually like it. I'm curious what it tastes like with a french fry because that is how you're supposed to eat-eat ketchup.[Crunch]Sure that's kind of nice. :) So while I'm not going to be swapping it out for my beloved tomato ketchup i do think it's pretty good granted i wouldn't make it again. It's not good enough to go to all the trouble and the expense. It's very, very expensive ketchup but it's fun experiment so make sure to go check out Tasting History the cookbook online.Links in the description and I will see you next time on Tasting History.
How does a child develop its sense of taste?
It all starts in the womb, with the formation of the first taste buds. From the fifth month of pregnancy, the foetus learns the difference between sweet, salty, bitter and acid by "drinking" the liquid in the mother's amniotic sac, the taste of which depends on her own diet. Recent figures show that a flavor experienced in utero can affect the way in which the child subsequently reacts to it. When born, a baby's taste system is already mature! But they continue to perfect it via their experiences as they grow. The family environment will therefore greatly affect their preferences.
A word-class chef named Samin Nostrat wrote a revolutionary book called “SALT, FAT, ACID, HEAT,” which became an immediate sensation (and Netflix series). The more comfortable you become working with these four elements, she claims, the more confident you’ll be going off-recipe and applying the basic principles to everything you make.
Put the principles of Salt, Fat, Acid and Heat into action by cooking the nourishing and delicious dishes from the series.
Master these four elements, master the kitchen. Based on Samin Nosrat’s best-selling book, SALT, FAT, ACID, HEAT is the essential guide to the basic elements of good cooking. Across the four part experience, the spirited guide Samin travels to home kitchens of Italy, the southern islands of Japan, the heat of the Yucatán and back to Berkeley's Chez Panisse—where she started her culinary career—to demystify and explore the central principles of what makes food delicious and how each of us can easily incorporate those elements into every dish.
Are there key stages in the way we learn taste?
After birth, between 6 and 12 months, the child becomes physiologically able to swallow things other than milk. Their taste receptors are more mature and more sensitive. And at this age, the baby is also very curious. These are all factors that encourage them to learn how to discover and accept new things. It is therefore a very important period for learning about taste. Especially because, for fruit and vegetables, the greater the variety of foodstuffs introduced at the start of the variation stage, the more positive the child's reaction to them later on. We need to take advantage of this! But it's not always easy: this "window" of opportunity is narrow 6 months - 1 year) and we must not forget the seasons: a European baby born in spring will start to vary its diet in winter when there are less fruits to try than for a December baby whose variation begins in June!